If you are like me, there are times
when you just want to plant seeds. Maybe the plant you want is not available
locally or you want to try a variety that is different from what you can find.
Or maybe the attempt to just watch something grow from a seed is what you want
to do.
I really like to plant seeds, to
watch them sprout and then grow into a lovely flower - the end product from
such a tiny beginning. There are very large seeds, such as the coconut with its
own flotation device and ability to cross long distances by water to take root
on a sandy shore and start a new colony of palm trees. Sometimes these stray
seeds will start their own island by building on a sand bar. Then there are the
tiniest of seeds, like the bedding begonia that simply look like dust - and if
you sneeze, you've lost your whole crop.
Because of the amazing difference
in seeds, you must learn about each one so that you can give it the proper
planting and care and be able to recognize the seedling, its "seed
leaves" and its true leaves. There are books and catalogs that show pictures
of seedlings and also many seed packets that also will advise you about the
care of seeds.
Planting seeds is also a way to
acquire a maximum number of plants at a minimum of cost. Study the seed packets
for the information you need about when to plant, how to plant and the size of
the grown plant. It will tell you if the plant needs sun or shade and if it is
suitable for a border or background. There should be information about how to
prepare the plant bed and the depth of planting, the germination rate and care
about watering and fertilizing.
Seeds vary so much in size that you
must consider their dimensions in their planting depth. Usually the rule is
that you plant the seed by its own depth. The mustard seed is about the size of
a comma in this paper, while a petunia seed is the size of the dot on the
"i." Radish seeds are about the size of an
"o," and some seeds are round while others are flat. The beet seed is
different in that it is actually a cluster of four seeds, but you cannot
separate them.
Some seeds need to be planted where
they are to grow, but many can be sown in flats or pots. This is a way to
insure you have early plants to set out when the weather is right. Much like
cooking, you need a recipe to follow and need to assemble all of your
ingredients before you start. You will need a container, the soil mixture and
the place to grow the seedlings. You must carefully prepare all your plant
containers and tools. Wash in soapy water, rinse well and spray with a diluted
bleach mixture and let dry. Wipe dry any metal tools or pans to prevent rust.
It is best to get a planter mix
that is sterilized to prevent "damping-off," a disease that will
attack the new seedlings. There are methods to bake soil in your oven to
sterilize it, but I find it less cumbersome to purchase the mix. Damping-off is
not as prevalent in direct row planting. If it does occur, there are treatments
available. In direct planting, your soil must be worked and smoothed and should
be of a fine even texture. Very small seeds are rarely covered. Simply press
them into the soil with fingertips. Little seeds are barely covered and larger
seeds are just covered until not visible. Another general rule is to cover
seeds with soil to a depth up to twice their diameter.
Moisture is most important and
should be carefully monitored. Follow the directions on the planting mixture
container before planting, or water your planting bed carefully before direct
sowing. Plastic bags can be used to help maintain the moisture but should not
touch the soil or plants. Strong light is needed, but prevent
direct sun. Row covers on frames are great for outside plantings. After
germination, watch carefully for the "true" leaves to appear. The
first two leaves are the "seed" leaves and are different shape than
the true leaves that follow. When the true leaves appear, you may begin
watering with a diluted fertilizer and remove the covering. The plants may be
moved to full sun.
As the plants grow, you can begin
to transplant the larger ones to small pots to encourage more rapid growth. Use
a spoon tip or plant label to move the new plant, carefully getting all the
root system. These pots can be placed in a protected outdoor environment for
even better growth. Do not rush these seedlings into the flowerbed until the
weather is stable. Let these plants become "hardened off" before
setting in their permanent location.
As the seedlings in direct planting
become too crowded, you may begin to thin them by carefully snipping or
pinching out the extra plants. It is best not to try to pull them out because
the roots will be intertwined and you may damage the plants you wish to keep.
Trees and shrubs also grow from
seeds, but patience is required. I have several small trees and a couple of
large trees that were planted from seeds. I planted a bur oak from an acorn, also a pecan, mimosa, buddleja
and althaea tree, and I also have a palm that a
squirrel planted in a pot for me.
If you admire a certain shrub in a
neighbor or friend's yard, ask for a few seeds and see what you can do.
Remember that seeds from a plant in the open may be different from the parent
plant. The commercial seeds available are selectively bred for specific color
and size. Many of the seeds we get now are hybrids, and if they are allowed to
re-seed, what they produce may not be the desired result.
There are other things I do with
seeds. For example, especially with seeds like radishes, I plant them to mark
where I have planted bulbs or other slow-sprouting seeds. Even if I mark the
area with a tag, I can over-plant with an outline of radish seeds. They sprout
quickly, are easily recognized and will be grown and easy to remove when the
bulbs of other seeds begin to show. My vegetable garden is a small raised bed,
so I use the "intensive" method of planting. I mix the fast growing
seeds with the slower ones, and then as they emerge I can use the fast crop
before the second crop is ready. This serves as reminder to me and any helper
that the area is planted. This works well for companion crops like radishes and
carrots, lettuces with greens, and onions with broccoli, each of which helps
the other in protection from insects.
Study your yard. Notice the sun and
shade patterns. Watch which areas stay wet and which dry out quickly. Notice
the areas that get the hottest and the ones that stay cooler. You may be
surprised. Fencing, paving, water, brickwork and metal all make a difference.
After you have arrived at the little "micro-climates" in your yard,
you may be able to try new plants in those areas, and seeds are a good way to
start.
If you have a greenhouse or an area
you can protect, you will find that many seeds are available for exotic or
tropical plants that you have not thought about growing. The seeds can seem
expensive, but the fun of growing them is the real joy. I'm sure most of us
have sprouted an avocado seed. I even got a small tree to produce little
avocados. Orange and lemon seeds are also easy to sprout, but could require
years of care and patience before fruit production.
One last reminder - always date and label everything you plant. It also helps to keep a small notebook handy so you can keep track of different varieties and how they worked. It may seem tedious at first, but after a while it becomes a habit and is well worth it to be able to look back and see which plants do well. This is the old fashioned "five W's" we all learned in school writing class - who, what, when, where and why. It works in gardening, too.