Ground rules and tools for October
October 7, 2004
ANN PARKS HEDRICK
Victoria County Master Gardeners
This bed of tulips
and hyacinths is the result of proper bulb care in the fall, consisting of
storage in a cool location for six to eight weeks prior to planting. Make
sure the bulbs remain dry to avoid mold or rot.
Fall is upon us
- and the gardening cycle continues to go fforward. October gardening presents
so many different options for "green thumbs." If your preference is
for fresh vegetables and herbs from your garden, then now is the time for
planting cool season blue-leafed vegetables such as broccoli, cabbage,
cauliflower, kale and Brussels sprouts. It is best to plant them as transplants
using a dilute fertilizer or seaweed and fish emulsion mix, feeding twice a
week until well established.
Salad mix
greens that do well are cress, arugula, fennel and
sorrel. Thyme, oregano, rosemary, parsley and Mexican mint marigold do best in
a bright location and the soil supplemented with a few inches of compost. Water
these plants but don't keep them too wet. Pine needles and other leaves can
serve as mulch and can aid in protecting seedling transplants.
If not
intending to plant a vegetable garden, you can sow into your garden this fall a
cool season green manure crop such as rye, vetch, crimson clover or oats. Green
manure is a term given to plants that are grown to benefit the soil. Planting
cereal rye (not ryegrass) now, however, can help you in controlling nematodes
if you have that soil pest problem. Mow it down and till it under a couple of
weeks before it goes to seed in the late spring to provide organic matter to
the soil.
Now if you are
interested primarily in floral plantings, transplant perennials that need to be
relocated. Dig and store caladium bulbs, make cuttings of tender plants and
plant container-grown landscape shrubs. Cyclamens are especially good for
vibrant winter color. You are reminded again from a previous article recently
published in this column that now is the time to either plant bluebonnet seed
or set out bluebonnet transplants in full sun in a well-drained location.
Spring blooming perennials will perform better when planted in the fall.
We are told
that when you place a cardboard box over poinsettias and Christmas cactus
during the late day from about 5 p.m. until 8 a.m. for about six weeks before
Christmas that the blooms will be very abundant for the holidays. You might
begin making preparations for this technique in late October for the upcoming
holiday season. Snapdragons, stocks, phlox, nicotiana,
chrysanthemums and marigolds are good choices for fall and winter color. Be
sure to amend beds with organic matter.
Bulbs are
another wonderful planting choice. Tulips and hyacinths need to be stored in
the refrigerator beginning in late October for six to eight weeks before
planting later in December or early January. Be sure that the bulbs remain dry
to avoid mold or rot; wrap them in paper towels, and put them in paper bags to
help assure dryness. Do not store in plastic bags or with apples, which can
damage bulbs. Plant the bulbs immediately upon removal from cold storage.
Generally
speaking, annual flowers need to be fed every month or so with a 3-1-2 or 4-1-2
ratio fertilizer because of lowered microbial activity in the soil resulting in
less nitrogen. Start collecting compost pile materials such as leaves, grass
and plant clippings. These should be sprinkled lightly with a garden
fertilizer.
Last week's
article in this column detailed weeds with recommended practices and methods to
curtail them. As we move into October, winter weeds likely will have begun to
sprout and could possibly continue even through November and December depending
on growing conditions. To repeat, winter weeds that typically cause problems in
our yards are annual bluegrass, bur clover, chickweed, dandelion, henbit, lawn burweed, stinging nettle and thistle.
Starting with
the least to the more toxic weed control method, pulling weeds is recommended
first, followed by applying mulch around desired plants and in walking paths to
keep weed seeds from seeing sunlight and sprouting, and also keeping soil
temperatures and moisture levels more uniform. Another option to minimize
winter weeds is to use a pre-emergent herbicide, which if applied before weeds
sprout, will kill sprouting seeds before they establish. There are several
different pre-emergent herbicides that range from organic to typical
herbicides. Further discussion on these can be found at
http://www.vcmga.org/2004_Sep30.html
- or by calling the Extension office at 3611-575-4581 for the list and use of
various products, remembering to carefully follow all instructions.
Finally, your
fall planting venture might include woody ornamentals, including trees, shrubs
and vines. Generally the faster growth trees are the least desirable. It is
important to regularly check newly planted shrubs and tree root systems for
moisture. Make sure the soil around the plants is mulched with a 2- to 3-inch bark mulch, but kept away from the plant
stem.
Basic to any
planting is conducting a soil test whose results will dictate what amendments
may be needed, and when applied in the fall will have enough time to benefit
the soil for spring plantings. Stop by the Extension office for soil sample
bags.
One more thing
for your October calendar: The 20th Anniversary South Texas Farm and Ranch Show
will be on Oct. 27 and 28 at the
Various fall
gardening practices mentioned in this article preempt the coming season,
eventually following that same season, again and again in nature's gardening
cycle. So, try the recommendations to prepare for the winter and spring,
followed by those for next summer - which will precede preparations for next
fall. It's kind of like the Energizer bunny - gardening keeps going and going -
and going!