July 2004 Victoria County Master Gardener Association Ground Rules and Tools for Gardening in July July 1, 2004 CHARLA BORCHERS LEON Victoria County Master Gardener Today's article is not only the monthly Ground Rules and Tools article published in this column, but it is a salute to those who have been a part of the column, to American patriots, and to a former fellow columnist. This is the 53rd article for The Gardeners' Dirt, and as such, marks the one-year anniversary that the Victoria County Master Gardeners have written to you each Thursday morning. As editor-in-chief, I wish to pen a thank you to the Victoria Advocate for that opportunity, and to commend and thank those who have contributed and been published in the column. It is a responsibility not taken lightly, and I, for one, know of the commitment of knowledge and time that go into each article. Our readers should know that what they read is as factually correct as possible, backed by scientific research at Texas A&M University - and its Extension program. Various topics have been the personal expertise of the authors; others have been "assignments" carefully researched and written with personalized flavor. Each article takes a minimum of eight to 10 hours while others have required weeks of work, and it is our hope that our efforts provide you, our readers, with pleasurable gardening knowledge. The column was entered in Texas Master Gardener competition this spring, and was awarded second place in Texas. Naturally, the Victoria County Master Gardeners take pride in this column and enjoy answering questions from you. Please continue to let us hear from you at our column address. With Flag Day recently in June, Independence Day (July Fourth) this coming weekend, our men and women serving in uniform to ensure freedom around the world, and the recent passing of our 40th president, I am invigorated by the sense of patriotism that abounds in our country. As a known "flag waver" in the community, I display patriotic furnishings throughout my home, fly the American flag lit at night above my door at the front of my home, have red, white and blue plantings in some areas of my yard, and also have patriotic garden art. Tree flowerbeds are currently planted in groupings of red frill caladiums, white vinca, and blue plumbago, all which are heat and sun tolerant and thrive in partial sun and shade. Doorstep beds below the American flag, which will remain at half-staff for 30 days in honor of the passing of former President Reagan, are in profusion of red pentas, blue salvia and white gaura. These are my summer patriotic bed selections, which will be swapped out with winter plantings of red, white and blue, along with a Christmas tree in similar theme twinkling through a front window during the holiday season. An American flag garden art piece stands in groundcover at the base of one of my very large live oak trees. Displaying a flag in our gardens is a simple way to show support for the Stars and Stripes, but remember to use proper flag etiquette, always displaying the flag with the union (white stars on blue) in the upper left corner and never letting the flag touch the ground. Garden flags are available in numerous styles, and are made from various products including fabric, metal, wood and even ceramic, to name a few. I was very careful in the one I selected to make sure proper etiquette was observed in design because I have noticed various staked, vertically-suspended welcome flags with the improper display of Old Glory with the union on the upper right corner instead of the left. To insure the American flag is properly used and displayed in your yard - or anywhere else, refer to: http://www.ushistory.org/betsy/flagetiq.html Note how the union is always placed to the flag's right, and often the viewer's left, for protocol correctness. The official beginning of summer brings a transition in gardening chores for the month of July. Most intense gardening projects slow down this time of the year due to the extremes in temperature while maintenance, especially watering, becomes increasingly more crucial. While the general rule of thumb is to water deeply and as infrequently as possible, as opposed to light sprinklings - hanging baskets, container plants and even some bedding plants require almost daily care. Even with the recent frequency of rainfall, 90+ temperatures directly on foliage will parch leaves and dry out root systems. Of course, a 3- to 4-inch mulch layer applied to beds will help prevent evaporation from the soil and lower the temperature in the root zone, reducing stress on the root system. Even most varieties of caladiums, which prefer a shady environment, require plenty of water if they are to remain lush and active until fall. Remember, too, to water in the early morning. Watering in the evening and night deposits moist residue on plants and flowers, attracting pests and laying the groundwork for fungus and disease. To control pesky mosquitoes, eliminate all sources of stagnant water. Other maintenance activities include harvesting cut flowers and deadheading spent blooms in flower gardens, preparations for fall gardening, and some minor, selective pruning. Cutting flowers frequently for indoor pleasure and deadheading spent blooms encourages most annuals and perennials to flower even more abundantly. Use sharp shears or a knife, which will help avoid injury to the growing plant. A slanted cut will expose a larger absorbing area to water and will prevent the base of the stem from resting on the bottom of a vase. You may even consider another planting of warm-season annuals such as purslane and portulaca, or marigolds, zinnias and periwinkles (vinca), which will require extra attention for the first few weeks but can provide color into the fall months. Weed control in the summer vegetable garden is important, and tilling the soil occasionally prevents weed seed production. Fall vegetable transplants, like tomatoes, eggplant and peppers, should be started in flats for transplanting into your weed-free garden in four to six weeks. If you start your own transplants, harden them off before transplanting. The tender plants need time to adjust to the harsh summer conditions. Pruning of rose bushes mid-summer can be beneficial with the removal of dead canes and any weak, brushy-type growth. Prune dead or diseased wood from trees and shrubs with major pruning left for the mid-winter season. Severe pruning now will only stimulate tender growth prior to cooler weather. And speaking of cooler weather, (what a nice thought that can be for those of us in the garden!) it is also time to establish a new compost pile for fall leaf accumulation and start planning fall decorations from the garden. Looking beyond the fall, now is also the time to plan for next spring. Dig and divide spring flowering plants such as irises, Shasta daisies, cannas, daylilies, violets, liriopes and ajugas. Take a break from the heat, and browse through the bulb catalogs that are starting to arrive in the mail. Make your selections and place your orders for spring flowering bulbs to arrive in time for planting in October and November. Old man "time" never ceases, not even in the garden. Gardening becomes a passion to those who love it - and I, as president of the Victoria County Master Gardener Association, on behalf of its 106 members, pay homage to a former master gardener and fellow columnist, Beverly Arnold, for her passion of gardening. Gertrude Jekyll in a gardening proverb is quoted as saying, "The love of gardening is a seed that once sown never dies." Beverly's love for the passion shared by the Victoria County master gardeners will indeed live on forever.